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From Elgar to Shamans and Spicy Squid

30-Jun-08

An Evening with UK-based Korean Artists, sponsored by the Embassy of the Republic of Korea and the Korean Cultural Centre, 27 June 2008

Report by Jennifer Barclay, with photos also by David Kilburn and Saharial

Let’s hope this is the first of many evenings devoted to young Korean artists living in the UK, because the Korean Cultural Centre provides an ideal central venue – and Friday night events mean out-of-towners like me can run across to Waterloo and catch the last train home, knowing we don’t have to be up early next morning for work. Judging by the turnout of well over a hundred guests, if word is spread through various channels there could be a regular audience for similar evenings organised by the eleven-year-old Korean Artists Association UK.

H.E. Ambassador Chun Yung-woo (photo: Jennifer Barclay)H. E. Ambassador Chun Yung-woo, formerly ROK representative to the Six Party Talks, this week saw his hard work come to fruition with the symbolic demolition of part of the Yongbyon nuclear installation in North Korea. Such a promising result had to be mentioned, but the Ambassador with modesty simply noted it was an auspicious occasion, and went on to give a brief, genial and upbeat speech recognising the value of artists in helping to define ‘who we are, the Korean people and nation’ and promoting ‘cultural exchange, friendship and understanding’.

Bach Double Concerto (photo: Saharial)Francesca Cho, chairman of the Korean Artists Association UK, made a great choice by asking London Korean Links’ founder, editor and principal blogger, Philip Gowman, to be master of ceremonies for the evening [Your cheque's in the post - Ed]. He put everything perfectly into context for a mixed Korean-British audience, and his musical knowledge particularly helped to introduce the first performance of violin and guitar by the elegant So Ra Lee and Jieun Park in little black dresses and strappy heels, and Roger Norkie, a South African honorary member of KAA. The beautiful Elgar piece felt, as he said, like music for the English ‘tea ceremony’ of cucumber sandwiches. The three pieces they played were not too long, popular and very nicely presented. A great start to the evening.

Next came poet Hye Kyoung Park reciting ‘The Face of Separation’. It was clever to choose something short and poignant, though I couldn’t catch the English version and thought it might be interesting another time for a native English speaker to perform the English half.

Ji-eun Jung (photo: David Kilburn)

I’ve seen them before, and everyone loves them: Ji Eun Jung on kayagum – in a stunning silk gown that gives her arms freedom to roam with such precision across the wide instrument – and Sung Min Jeon on guitar. Personally, I love it when Ji Eun Jung plays older Korean music on the traditional 12-string kayagum, which looks like a zither, a big plank of wood with strings, invented in the sixth century. What an amazing sound – dare I say it, a bit bluegrass-like, with rhythmic ebb and flow – they call it a Korean harp but the sound has a more masculine twang to me, like a slide guitar. Then she swapped it for a 25-string later variation on the kayagum, and the two of them played ‘Amazing Grace’, Arirang and the Korean and English national anthems – the crowd were delighted. I think maybe the guitar was overpowering the kayagum slightly at first, but the sound mix was fixed halfway through.

Sunnee Lee (photo: David Kilburn)

Philip admitted that his wife Louise first knew of Korea when she saw the dance troupe the Little Angels on Blue Peter. And now a former member of the Little Angels, Sunnee Park, was to perform a shaman ritual dance. She waved incense into the corners of the room, shook a very loud bell at each wall to ward off evil spirits, span around with swathes of cloth in a pretty way, all the while trying to show the trance-like state of the shaman. It was a stylised dance inspired by shamanistic ritual, which for me didn’t convey the slightly scary, ecstatic emotion of the real thing. But as a dance based on an aspect of Korean culture, it works well.

The Taekwondo team (photo: Saharial)To round off the performances came the troupe of very young students of taekwondo, led by Seung Soo Ha. ‘Don’t try any of this at home,’ quipped Philip, as perhaps the youngest and tiniest of the martial artists punched and kicked his way through a series of wood blocks. In another routine, three of the kids knelt to the ground together while another leaped over all their backs and then roundhouse kicked through another block. The tallest of them was blindfolded, took three steps back and then kicked an apple off a knife. What’s even cuter about these kids is that it’s not always perfect. When their instructor ended the display by punching his way through six blocks together, one sweet kid at the edge of the stage raised his eyebrows above the rims of his glasses and stuck his tongue right out in admiration.

Inside the KCC (photo: David Kilburn)The evening’s displays were cleverly kept to an hour, and there was time to mingle afterwards over a drink and a buffet, during which I discovered my new favourite Korean food, squid and vegetables cooked in a spicy sauce, which I believe is spelled something like ojinga hae muchim. Let’s hope I can find some at the Korean Food Festival coming up in New Malden on 12 July.

I was gutted to discover last week that I’d missed Dulsori performing at Petworth Park in Sussex, my own neck of the woods, only finding out about the concert a day later. Please let us know about Korean artists’ performances across the country. London Korean Links aims to spread the word, but it relies on getting the information from the organisers and sponsors. The Korean Cultural Centre and the Embassy seem to be doing a fantastic job of sponsoring fine events. Keep it coming.

Links:

Sun, percussion, and yang energy

11-Jun-08

Jennifer Barclay celebrates her first anniversary with LKL with her report from the second Dano Korean Summer Festival

The sound of percussion crept around Trafalgar Square as a strange vehicle circled the fountains and wheeled into view: a tall Mad Max-style contraption with coloured flags waving from poles, people dressed in black and orange hanging off the sides and beating at bizarre instruments: sheets of metal arranged as a xylophone, black rubber tubes, drums made from steel wheels.

It sounds like it should produce an unpleasant cacophony, but the truth was far from it. These energetic people were skilled musicians and created harmonious music that captured everyone’s attention.

Noridan

Noridan close-upAs the human-powered ‘Sprocket’ came to a halt in the middle of the square, crowds gathered to watch the talented group run about, leap in the air and bash gleefully at instruments made from recycled materials. When Koreans start drumming, it’s something special, so when they picked up their selection of proper drums it was a thrilling experience. This group from Seoul called Noridan was for many the highlight of the second Dano festival in central London on 8 June 2008. If you weren’t there, I’m afraid you lost out, as they’re on their way back to Seoul almost immediately. South Korea’s first ‘social enterprise’ in the arts, they create programmes for teenagers with themes like ‘Upgrade Yourself’ and they promote recycling, play and imagination. They deserve to do very well.

Sun in Trafalgar Square

Trying on HanbokWhat a fun afternoon it was, aided by the hot, sunny weather that had everyone fanning themselves. This year’s festival was sponsored by LG (slogan – ‘Life’s Good’) [1] and coincided with the first week in London of the new South Korean Ambassador Chun Yung-woo, who seemed to be enjoying this rather impressive welcoming party. Once again there was a delightful cultural mix out to celebrate the positive ‘yang’ energy that Dano’s all about.

The Korean Cultural Centre had cleverly provided traditional clothing for anyone to try [above right [2]], and it was great to watch older Indian couples have their photos taken in colourful hanbok, while the fan-making and paper-folding craft tents provided entertainment for young kids. Seoul was being promoted as a perfect ‘stopover city’ with pretty free gifts and information, and as usual there was a tempting though sinful array of Korean food being cooked up right there, like sweet and sour chicken and fried dumplings, barbecued beef and of course rice cakes in spicy sauce.

Taroo

The choice of performances was eclectic. I arrived to see a contemporary pop opera about an ordinary Mr Kim who works in a factory but quits his job to market a new product: five minutes of time. He is dogged by many problems, such as the supermarket’s exchange and returns policy. Yes, it was very strange with spacey costumes, but according to the troupe Taroo (above), this five minutes could bring ‘comfort and freedom back to the people pressed for time’ – which can speak to Londoners as well as Seoulites.

Lee Chul Jin

Another act was the slow, precise, traditional dancing of Lee Chul Jin in flowing robes (above), aimed at promoting positive energy throughout the ‘village’ of London. And the loud Korean rock music found fans also, although I can’t say I was one of them, and I found the Guy Barker jazz quintet rather out of place and a poor substitute for 2007’s B-boys. I hope one year we might see some traditional Dano activities such as iris hair treatments and ssirum wrestling, but I suppose all the experts are busy doing such things in Korea at this time of year. In any case, the organisers did a wonderful job of providing something lively for everyone, as was attested by the happy crowds all afternoon. All surely came away with a better understanding of and interest in South Korea – and that’s what this Trafalgar Square event is all about.

Links

  1. Don’t forget the other generous sponsors: Asiana, who were the only commercial sponsor last year, plus the Korea Foundation, the Korea Tourism Organisation, Seoul Metropolitan Government, the KCC, and the Ministry of Culture Sports & Tourism - Ed [back]
  2. Thanks to Neusa Gomes of the LKL Facebook Group for the photo. All other photos are Jennifer's [back]

More photos from the Square

09-Jun-08

Here’s a selection of Jennifer Barclay’s pics. Jennifer’s article will be up soon.

Dr Hyun-key Kim Hogarth: how to be an anthropologist of your own culture

24-May-08

Known to her neighbours in Kent as Kim Hogarth, Hyun-key left Korea in 1968 before she’d even learned to cook Korean food. Her CV says ‘Nationality: British’. But it’s her academic work on Korean shamanism that keeps her busy giving papers and publishing books. Jennifer Barclay met the social anthropologist in London to find out more.

I first met Dr Hyun-key Kim Hogarth, fellow of the Royal Anthropological Institute, at an Anglo-Korean Society gathering at the Korean Cultural Centre, and wanted to find out more about her work. So I was delighted when she agreed to come and have lunch with me at Asadal and tell me her story. She arrives in a bright pink dress and knee-high black boots, very chic, but I know it’s been a very difficult few years for her since her husband died. I ask her to start at the beginning, which she does as she enjoys a bibimbap.

Kim Hogarth (left) with Jennifer Barclay

Dr Hyun-key Kim Hogarth (left) and Jennifer Barclay

Hyun-key was born and brought up in central Seoul, a stone’s throw from the Secret Garden. She was one of five children of Hahn Moo-sook, the acclaimed literary author of Encounter and And So Flows History, which was ‘dumbed down’ and sexed up for TV serialization in the late 80s and early 90s. Her father was the powerful president of a bank and later chairman of a merchant banking corporation, and much was expected. She attended Kyunggi Girls’ High School, of course, which had high academic standards. In the end, four of the five siblings would have PhDs and one become a medical doctor.

But it happened in a roundabout way for Hyun-key. In her second year studying English Language and Literature at Ewha Woman’s University, she was invited to attend the Queen’s Birthday Party. This was her first time attending a party like that on her own – she’d had a sheltered upbringing – and she was ‘eighteen, very thin, I wanted to look like Audrey Hepburn with my hair up and long black gloves…’ The inevitable happened, and a young British diplomat named Robert Hogarth fell for this pretty young scholar who knew English literature and appreciated his sense of humour. He asked if he could meet her again.

In those days, interracial marriage was virtually unknown in good families; it was for American GIs and loose women. In families like Kim’s, you were introduced to a nice Korean boy in the company of a chaperone. Her elder sister had paved the way somewhat by meeting a Frenchman while studying at the University of California at Berkeley, but he was a Frenchman with a PhD. The twenty-six year old Robert Hogarth didn’t even have a degree, having done national service and then diplomatic exams, and although his family was a good middle-class one, their romance brought tension to the Kim household. Meanwhile, Hyun-key attained excellent results in her undergraduate studies and was offered a place at Berkeley in 1968.

I’d thought South Koreans were not allowed to travel during those years, but Hyun-key explains that they were allowed to travel for study. Study abroad was very expensive and only for the academically gifted, and it was hard to get a student visa because of complicated restrictions to thwart fraudulent claims. Hyun-key’s application encountered no problems and she went to Berkeley, but circumstances made her change her mind and decide to marry Robert.

They planned a wedding at a twelfth-century church at Cudham near Orpington where his parents were living at the time, and he met her in the US to escort her back on a cruise on the QE1. But they had to get married in the States, since Cunard would not allow unmarried couples to share the same cabin and he could not afford two single cabins. And so the newlywed Hyun-key Kim Hogarth from Seoul moved to Kent and, after too many mix-ups with her unusual name, became simply Kim Hogarth.

She worked as a teacher until the Foreign and Commonwealth Office offered Robert a posting to Israel, followed by Botswana. Alexander McCall-Smith’s Precious Ramotswe novels bring it all back vividly, she says, but it was also in Botswana that she first started to become interested in the Bushmen and tribal customs, the beginning of her passion for anthropology. During the years in Botswana and in Cameroon, while bringing up their two children, she observed and read influential books like The Harmless People by Elizabeth Marshall Thomas, one of the first westerners to live among the Kalahari Bushmen.

And then her husband was posted to South Korea in 1987. Hyun-key had been away for twenty years and, having had a cloistered childhood in Seoul, she’d never really travelled around her own country except to resorts on family holidays. So now she saw her own culture with the dual perspective of insider and outsider. Four years later when they returned to England, she applied to do an MA in social anthropology at the University of Kent at Canterbury – with a thesis on Korean shamanism.

The first tangible evidence of shamanism is in Paleolithic rock carvings in Siberia, but it’s probably been around as long as people have, and it has pervaded everyday lives throughout Korea’s long history. Known in other cultures sometimes as medicine men, witch doctors, mediums or oracles, shamans mediate between the spirit world and human beings in order to help the suffering. The healer often uses an ecstatic or altered state of consciousness to commune with the supernatural. Even in twelfth-century Korea, shamanism was seen by intellectuals as nonsense, laughable, primitive.

After the Korean War, South Korea’s succession of authoritarian governments concentrated on modernising the country. In her book Korean Shamanism and Cultural Nationalism (1999, Jimoondang), Hyun-key writes that she remembered the kut or shamanistic rituals as ‘noisy, colourful, but strangely eerie events, which used to be held by women, mainly in the countryside’. When she left Korea in 1968, they were rarely performed publicly in Seoul. President Park Chung-hee’s New Village Movement abolished such ‘superstitions’ and destroyed shamanistic village shrines, so it only survived on the periphery of society.

Kim HogarthIn the late eighties, when she returned, South Korea had gone through a complete metamorphosis from an impoverished agricultural country to a newly industrialised nation, and globalisation fever swept through it, culminating in the Olympics in 1988. The old city gate of Namdaemun, which once had been so prominent, was dwarfed by high-rise buildings. And yet, oddly, the shamanistic rituals were back, being performed right outside City Hall. What Hyun-key observed was that in a rapidly industrialising, modern, westernised Korea, shamanism was being revived as an expression of nationalism.

The time was right, she says. Anthropologist Maurice Block found that in Madagascar circumcision was once considered barbaric but later revived by the elite. When people no longer have to worry about food and shelter, they can revive their traditions. I wonder if it’s a bit like the revival of the Cornish language today.

‘It’s a reaction against homogenisation,’ says Hyun-key. It’s natural to crave something exotic, but only when the conditions are right. It fits with the world trend towards the revival of ethnicity. With globalisation, people are forced to exist side by side, buy the same and eat the same. There’s a need to belong to something. And, I suggest, perhaps we also crave something mystical, something that can’t be fully explained? Yes, says Hyun-key. ‘With shamanism, the roots go very deep – Korea is an ancient culture – what better than your own exotica?’

She’s been criticized for saying the rediscovery of Korean heritage is not something especially Korean but part of a global trend. But it makes a lot of sense to me. The author of four books and numerous articles on English literature, anthropology, Korean culture and society, Hyun-key Kim Hogarth gave two papers last year, and is going to give two more this year in the UK and US on her most recent area of study, Shamanism and Christianity. She’s hardly shying away from controversy with the title ‘Jesus as a shaman’. But she has no agenda, she simply follows her interests and observations. Her next project is a book on Korean Christianity, which she hopes to complete next year.

Today’s shamans in South Korea are around 80 per cent women, usually from families with no opportunity for social advancement, sometimes orphans, sometimes psychologically disturbed, not part of the mainstream. Accepting the spirits allows them to help other people with misfortunes. They are compassionate and defiant. It’s a hard society to penetrate, and it took Hyun-key several months to be allowed in, but once they trust you they’re very supportive. Shamanistic rituals cost thousands of pounds, and it’s certainly in the shamans’ best interests to encourage the fresh nationalistic support for their practices. In 2006 she participated in the first international conference entirely sponsored by a shaman.

In the meantime, for herself, she’s been working on a memoir of her beautiful, sad love story. Her late husband Robert Hogarth used to work at the Foreign and Commonwealth Office, just around the corner from the new Korean Cultural Centre, where now you can read some of her work in the excellent reference library. Accessibly written and fascinating for anyone with an interest in Korean culture, the books are also available from Jimoondang in Seoul.

Bibliography

  • Kut: Happiness Through Reciprocity (1998, Budapest, Academiai Kiado)
  • Korean Shamanism and Cultural Nationalism (1999, Seoul, Jimoondang)
  • Syncretism of Buddhism and Shamanism in Korea (2002, Edison & Seoul, Jimoondang)
  • Tasks and Times: Memoirs of Lee Tong Won, Foreign Minister who Finalized the ROK-Japan Normalization Treaty (2004, Seoul, Jimoondang)

A diplomatic career in Korea

14-May-08

Jennifer Barclay reports from the AKS Evening with Warwick Morris at the KCC
Wednesday 7 May, 2008

Warwick Morris retired from the British Diplomatic Service in February 2008 after 38 years, 13 of which he and his wife spent in South Korea in three very different postings. Members and guests of the Anglo-Korean Society had a real treat on Wednesday 7 May when we were invited to hear him speak at the Korean Cultural Centre off Trafalgar Square, followed by a buffet with the opportunity to mingle afterwards. Morris is an immensely likeable, entertaining and self-effacing speaker and in the brief time allotted gave a clear view of the changes in South Korea over three decades.

Warwick Morris at the KCC

Former British Ambassador to the Republic of Korea, Morris’s ‘three bites of the cherry’ began in 1974. Shortly after joining the Diplomatic Service, he was told he was going to South Korea, arriving just after an assassination attempt on President Park Chung-hee. En route he stopped in Hong Kong, which seemed exotic and strange; Korea seemed ‘even more strange’. The winter temperatures regularly reached minus 20, and it was a ‘rather bleak’ and tense time under military dictatorship, with curfew every night and air raid practices once a month, and a violently anti-communist atmosphere.

The economy was already racing along at a 10 per cent growth rate, similar to China today, although 40 per cent of the population was still involved in fishing and farming (compared to a mere seven or eight per cent today) and big industry was only just beginning. The per capita income was $600 (compared to $20,000 today), and Park initiated the New Village Movement to modernise the country.

In 1976, at Panmunjom US soldiers were axed to death, and there were frequent tense incidents on the border. A small British battalion remained in Seoul as part of the UN presence. In that security-conscious atmosphere, Morris found it an exciting time and place to be a diplomat, meeting dissidents who could only express their views to him, spending time ‘in dark shady coffee shops with dark shady characters’. He learned Korean and became Second Secretary in the Embassy. On the day he left in October 1979, President Park was actually assassinated – not by a North Korean commando at all, but the director of the Korean Central Intelligence Agency, who claimed Park was an obstruction to democracy.

When Morris was next posted to Korea in 1988 as Head of Political Affairs, the president was ‘a general in a suit’, showing the country was moving towards democracy. With the collapse of the Soviet Union, ex-Soviet embassies started to arrive in Seoul, the first being Hungary, whose ambassador came directly from North Korea.

While tension and security concerns were still present, there had been huge development in the infrastructure by then, with wider roads, high buildings and bridges across the cleaned-up Han River, previously black and fringed with slum housing. The press was less controlled. In 1991, Morris was invited to Pyongyang for four days to supervise a delegation of British MPs, and became the first British diplomat in North Korea since the war.

In his last posting to South Korea, Morris was British Ambassador to the Republic of Korea from 2003 to February 2008. Arriving in 2003, Morris was struck by how much had been achieved; while shaken by the Asian economic crisis, the country was bouncing back faster than others that had been affected. Here now was a democracy with a ‘real civilian president’. South Korea is now the 11th biggest trading nation with remarkable high-speed trains, and is beginning to play an international role in peacekeeping and poverty reduction. The beautiful countryside has not all been covered in concrete. And the Koreans still feel very strongly about the help they received from the British soldiers during the war.

After the speech, this sentiment was whole-heartedly echoed by Major General Mike Swindells, president of the British Korean War Veterans, who added that ‘no country has shown such consistent gratitude’. It’s wonderful what the British did, he said, to help Korea when Britain itself was still under rationing and suffering from World War Two. ‘But it’s even more wonderful what the Republic of Korea has done in remembering.’

The event ran over schedule a little because of the opening presentation by Samsung VP of Consumer Electronics for UK and Ireland, Andrew Griffiths, who waxed lyrical about his beautiful high tech televisions, cultural marketing and corporate social responsibility. But when Samsung sponsors such useful and enjoyable events – and the superb venue – then we’re happy to sit through corporate presentations. Unfortunately it overran and cut into the time Warwick Morris had to speak and answer questions, but then it’s evidently been an astonishingly good year for the Korean company. It’s not every year that the Queen gives her Christmas Day speech with a Samsung TV in the background.

It meant I had to dash away for my train soon after the speeches to get home before midnight, but not before I’d enjoyed the buffet. Thanks to Warwick Morris for giving us a window onto an amazing career, and to the Anglo-Korean Society’s chairman Sir Stephen Brown and Social Events Secretary Sylvia Park for putting on an exceptional evening, and to sponsors Samsung.

Photo taken on my lovely Samsung camera.

Cherry blossom festival in Vancouver

25-Mar-08

On the first day of Vancouver’s Cherry Blossom Festival, Jennifer Barclay reports on a recent visit to the Canadian city’s Koreatown

Vancouver downtown

Driving around Vancouver makes you hungry. There’s a Vietnamese restaurant next to an Indian next to a Greek next to a Korean. That’s especially on the big roads like Kingsway that lead away from downtown towards suburban areas like Burnaby and Surrey. I’d been driving out there a lot to visit some Fijian Canadians whose wedding I was in town for. But I’d read on the Internet that there was a Koreatown in downtown Vancouver, down in the West End, so one sunny morning when I had nothing to do, I strolled down to check it out.

Well, I suspect that some of the Korean stores, noodle houses and karaoke bars down there have moved on, because I couldn’t find more than a handful. Every underused block of downtown Vancouver is quickly being turned into a glass high-rise in a building frenzy that’s supposedly pre-Olympics speculation – though Vancouver’s been booming for two decades as wealthy Asians make their way across the Pacific. Perhaps Koreatown was developing faster in other parts of the city – I’d spotted a language school elsewhere.Robson Public Market, Vancouver

Nevertheless, since I was there I stopped in a Korean Internet café near a centre for visiting students, then I went into the sunny upstairs food court of Robson Public Market at the corner of Robson and Cardero (above) and sat down at the welcoming Robson Teriyaki/Da-Rak-Bang eatery. It alone was worth the trip. They served up a feast of tofu kimchi tchigae with side dishes of spicy beansprouts and marinated courgette, all for a bargain $7 (about £4).

Heading downstairs after lunch I found shops full of fresh fish straight from the ocean, a couple of Korean businesses and loads of free Korean newspapers and magazines, Joongang and Korea Sun and Canada Express. I passed a few Korean/Japanese bars and restaurants, and within minutes found myself at a gleaming marina fringed with cherry blossoms:Vancouver marina

The Vancouver cherry blossom festival runs from late March to late April. Even in early March the blossoms were out. From there it was just a short walk to the edge of Stanley Park, where the huge old trees make you wonder if you can really still be in the city, and to Second Beach, where I sat on the sand and listened to the waves rolling in, watching cargo ships heading off into the deep blue Pacific, while in the near distance there were mountains covered in forest and snow.

Links

Words of inspiration

24-Feb-08

No River to CrossNO RIVER TO CROSS: Trusting the Enlightenment that’s Always Right There
Zen Master Daehaeng
Wisdom Publications, Boston US$14.95

SterneSterneSterneSterneSterne

The title refers to the idea that you don’t have to make a grand pilgrimage to find your Buddha nature, as it’s already inside you, and this approachable book offers plenty of inspiring thoughts. It starts with a lovely biographical account of Daehaeng Kun Sunim, who rejected formal teaching and wandered alone for years in the wilderness to find out what life was all about. The book proceeds to offer an introduction to Buddhist ideas — often profound and challenging, but arranged in short and stimulating pieces to meditate upon. Beautifully produced, it’s not a book to read in one sitting, but to digest slowly and keep going back to. The most comforting message is to be found in the ways the Seon (Zen) Master shows us the perfection of things just as they are. Daehaeng Kun Sunim is the most influential nun in the Jogye Order and Korean society at large, with an ability to reach out to a wide audience of both ordained and lay Buddhists. This latest publication is to be recommended for anyone interested in Buddhist ideas.

Links:

The ribbon is cut; the Centre is open

02-Feb-08

Jennifer Barclay reports from the official opening ceremony of the new Korean Cultural Centre UK.

Andrew RamsayKorea has been ’setting the pace of popular culture far beyond its boundaries in the last decade,’ noted Mr Andrew Ramsay (left) of the Department of Culture, Media and Sport in the opening remarks at the launch of the Korean Cultural Centre off Trafalgar Square on 30 January.

Ambassador ChoPopular culture does seem to be the focus of this coolly designed new space with its glass walls and funky chandeliers. But it’s also about the fusion of rich traditions with contemporary dynamism, as the Korean Ambassador, Dr Cho (right), explained in his speech: a recognition of an artistic legacy. And so past the video art on the walls floated lovely ladies in brightly coloured hanbok, and the speeches were followed by a traditional tea ceremony (bottom).

The room beyond the ceremony was buzzing with conservation, and so I entered the fray. Everywhere were the Men in Black — important chaps from embassies and LG and Samsung. The illustrious crowd included representatives from Imperial College, SOAS, Asia House, the Asia Editor of BBC World, the Foreign and Commonwealth Office. Bubbly and pretty little canapés were offered unstintingly.

An abundance of art people were there to see the Centre launch a vibrant and varied visual art exhibition. Entitled Good Morning, Mr Nam June Paik, it focused on homage to the work of this video artist who died in 2006 and whose three major video pieces were being shown in London for the first time. But in celebrating his spirit of creativity, communication and collaboration (he worked with people like John Cage and Allen Ginsberg) it showcased 24 contemporary Korean artists.

Party shot 1 Party shot 2Party shot 3

My favourite entrepreneur and stringer for various Korean publications, TJ, was milling about so I asked him his opinion. He showed me Junsung Bae’s ‘The costume of painter kiss’ (surely an erroneous translation?), an image of a Renaissance couple embracing — but wait, when you saw it from another angle, the woman was alone and naked. ‘Beautiful!’ said TJ. He said last time I wrote about him it was only partly non-fiction, so you can decide whether or not I made that up.

I loved a piece called ‘Soft Power’ by Duck Hyun Cho (below left), a drawing which apparently merged a portrait of Queen Elizabeth II with his own mother in a gorgeous piece with flowing swathes of cloth; funnily, not the only royal nod, as Miyeon Yoon had created a striking Elizabeth I with a Korean face (below centre). My attention was also drawn to Woojung Chun’s delicate recreations of human organs in gauzy material juxtaposed with intriguing handwritten vignettes of women (below right); presumably there was a change in the selection at the last minute as unfortunately another piece of hers is in the beautifully produced exhibition programme.

Cho Duck-hyun: Soft PowerYoon Miyeon: Elizabeth IChun Woojung: Fictions

Something I missed was Atta Kim’s photograph of the untouched wilderness that has grown in the DMZ during half a century of Korea’s division. Definitely worth returning for, among other pieces. The Director of the Walsall Art Gallery told me his favourite was Youngin Hong’s ‘Landscape-Bankside’, a psychedelic interpretation of the cityscape from the Millenium Bridge. The collection seemed to me well chosen with something for everyone.

Watching the Ambassador being filmed by KBS, I thought what a nice man he always seems. The young student of International Relations I was chatting to, who’d just finished a month’s internship at the embassy and was off on a tour of Europe by bus, agreed — Ambassador Cho was her professor back home — and agreed with me that it had been an exciting evening. I left thinking what a brilliant occasion it had been, and what an excellent venue — and was only dismayed to see in the literature I received that the Korean Cultural Centre would only be open 9.30–5.30, Monday to Friday. How sad not to be able to go back or encourage others to visit.

Tea ceremony

We Love Kim Soo Hee (she said)

31-Jan-08

Two of your regular LKL writers were so taken with Kim Soo Hee’s concert on 26 January that we both felt moved to write about it. Here’s Jennifer’s take.

Kim Soo Hee publicity photo

Kim Soo Hee, we love you! Especially when you make that heart shape with your arms above your head and blow a kiss. Please come back to London. We’ll try to take Korean lessons in the meantime.

OK, Philip and I thought we were a little mad going to see a Korean pop singer who made her name back in the seventies or eighties (we think). We were indeed the only non-Koreans in the audience, bar one or two with Korean company, because the event was only advertised through the community. Kim Soo Hee was a legend and so Philip coughed up for the thirty quid tickets. What were we thinking? We had no idea what to expect.

But fifteen minutes into the show, when the lovely Kim Soo Hee was bouncing up and down on stage, getting the audience to stand up, clap their hands and sway their hips — oh, and wearing the sparkliest, dazzliest, most cleavage-hugging, backless dress you’ve ever seen — we were hooked. This woman sang in the raunchiest deep voice like Shirley Bassey and had a figure like Sophia Loren — but prettier, with a heart-shaped face, beaming smile and, with her long hair tucked up at the back, almost boyish haircut.

Kim Soo Hee

Not only all that, but she seemed to be doing stand-up comedy between songs, rather lost on us but much enjoyed by the rest of the audience. A young woman sitting near me filled me in during the break while the pop diva changed costumes. Apparently she’d talked about relationships, how you could talk so much more openly in the UK than in Korea, and about kimchi with wine, a new recipe taking the republic by storm. And she talked about the ups and downs of her own life, one very recent one being arriving that night to discover she’d been booked to play a church hall. Now, the stately St John’s, Smith Square, Westminster is hardly an ordinary church hall, and well known as a classical music venue, but Kim Soo Hee plays pop concerts, and there had been a few technical hitches, not to mention an absence of mood lighting.

Kim Soo Hee

She returned to the stage in a demure lemon-yellow hanbok for a traditional Korean operatic song, giving an extremely powerful rendition and holding unfaltering notes, before turning to popular ballads. One of her biggest fans, Sylvia, had been right in describing her before the show as lively and emotional. And we’d never had guessed it would be so much fun. What a night. Kim Soo Hee, ssarang-hae!

(With apologies for the grainy quality of the photos. The next upgrade to my digital camera will have a higher ISO number - Ed)

Links

Anglo-Korean Bridge At The House Of Commons

10-Nov-07

The dignitaries at the AKS annual House of Commons dinner

By Jennifer Barclay

‘You getting wet, love?’ asked the policeman outside the Houses of Parliament, where it was drizzling on the evening of 25 October. I was early and getting a little damp, but sure my ticket bearer would show up soon. Instead, the policeman ushered me inside, giving me an opportunity to gaze on the oldest part of the Palace of Westminster, where royals lie in state when they pop off.

For me, the most exciting thing about the Anglo-Korean Society Annual Dinner at the House of Commons on 25 October was the setting. I’d been fretting about my Lounge Suit, but the fascinating guided tour of the House of Commons and House of Lords took my mind off all that. I learned what ‘toeing the line’ really means: it’s the ’sword line’ that keeps the MPs on the front row from getting into fisticuffs with the opposition. I also learned that an astonishing number of people don’t turn off their mobile phone on a tour of the Houses of Parliament. I’m surprised you’re allowed in with one.

The oddest thing about the Anglo-Korean Society Annual Dinner for me was that, given that this is an organisation devoted to friendship and networking, there was so little time for Anglo-Korean socializing. By the time we’d had our tour and made our way to the oddly named Terrace Pavilion (not a pavilion, and no sign of a terrace), there was only about half an hour of reception, which meant a sort of speed dating was necessary for me to get a sense of the people I might meet as a member of the Anglo-Korean Society. I was whipping out business cards like there was no tomorrow.

Grabbing a glass of wine, I chatted briefly with a friendly Korean woman who worked for a London law firm, and would have liked to get to know her better but she got pulled into another conversation. Her company was a member of the society, so perhaps there was business to be done and a writer / publisher wasn’t the kind of new client her company wanted her to meet. Swiftly flipping business cards en route with another friendly Korean woman, London correspondent of Yonhap News Agency, I took the opportunity to accost a member of the Anglo contingent.

He turned out to be a banker who’d lived in Korea for three years in the early eighties. It was a time, he recalled, of air raid practices at night, raids on the Blue House, a shoot-out in Panmunjom. I was curious to know more but my notebook made him nervous. His wife had learned to speak the language — there were very few foreigners there at the time, 13 Caucasians in all of Pusan — and his children, young then, now remembered Korea ‘by and large with affection’. He had kept in touch with Korean friends in Seoul, but didn’t know anyone in the Terrace Pavilion that evening. Perhaps he would make new friends over dinner.

To dinner at the Churchill Dining Room, where I was seated at an almost exclusively Anglo table. It seemed odd for an Anglo-Korean Society Dinner to be segregated into Anglos and Koreans. Nevertheless, it was fortunate to meet the Birmingham-based director, director’s wife and producer of Hanyong Theatre Projects, creators of an inspired bilingual play called The Bridge — about collaboration, conflict resolution and communication beyond language. The Korean National University of Arts had noticed Peter Wynne-Willson’s work and invited him to teach a course, and this was what developed. It’s been performed in the England and South Korea (Seoul and closer to the border) and may be taken to Adelaide, Australia next year if funding can be secured.

Peter Bottomley, an MP for 32 years and Secretary of the Anglo-Korean Parliamentary Group, kicked off the speeches by neatly comparing politics to the fluctuations of the Thames and reminding us that this room dedicated to Churchill was a good place for exchanging ideas. He handed over to the guest speaker, the Right Honourable The Lord Richard QC, among other things a past President of the UK-Korea Forum for the Future.

After observations that Koreans were industrious, disciplined and economically successful, he commended the Korean workforce for accepting discipline in the short term in order to emerge from the economic crisis. I’m sure he was just being polite in not mentioning how that ‘discipline’ was enforced occasionally. An interesting question nonetheless, whether Koreans as a society have a capacity for determination in the quest for long-term goals. He finished by commenting on how the North-South meetings have brought ‘remarkable’ changes, and the importance of taking baby steps towards solving the North Korea problem. It perhaps wasn’t the meaningful exchange of ideas that had been set up, but perhaps the annual dinner is not the place for serious debate.

His Excellency The Ambassador of the Republic of Korea, Dr Cho Yoon-Je, showed his customary grace as he thanked the speaker and said he was placing a strong priority on enhancing the British people’s understanding of Korea. Hear hear.

Perhaps the annual dinner is not the place for discussion in any case. It’s for celebrating friendship and meeting people, so I did a spot more speed dating as we hovered around the dinner table. Failed to hit it off with an Anglo in business development who bought art from a North Korean he met in Zimbabwe. Did better with an Aussie Anglo, also in international business development, and his charming Korean lady friend.

Social Events Secretary Sylvia Park does a wonderful job of organizing four events through the year, and the society offers bursaries to UK graduates studying Korean culture and history. Try to support them if you can by joining — they’re doing excellent work and you might just make some new friends.

Tripe, black pudding and a communal sing-song…

17-Jul-07

Korean Food Festival 2007

…but this is no East-End boozer. Jennifer Barclay reports from Saturday’s Korean Food Festival

The softly spoken Mr Kim tells me he thinks Korean food is the most highly developed in the world, while standing over the searing hot barbecue cooking galbi, beef marinated in 17 different ingredients. His white t-shirt somehow manages to remain immaculate, although he is slinging steaks onto the grill all day.

‘French food is seen as the best in the world. The French, they have 170 different cuts of the cow, of beef. Koreans, we have more than 200. Close to 300.’

An impressive fact, although I wonder privately if it is a good thing to eat that many parts of a cow. The thinly sliced meat tastes sweet, and I’m impressed that young men like Mr Kim are spending their Saturday helping at the community’s Korean Food Festival that takes place every year during the New Malden Fortnight. All the restaurants in this London community have special events — the high street is packed with stalls — but it’s only the Korean restaurants who come together in the expansive garden of the Fountain Pub to create a cultural gathering. I come prepared to eat lots.

I start off with tokboki, and sit down at a table where a friendly lady asks, ‘Are you OK with this spicy food?’ It isn’t very spicy, but has pleasantly crunchy carrot, cabbage and spring onion, and enormous fat rice cakes. The sun is strong and she goes to seek shade, leaving space for an older Indian couple. We are watching the taekwondo demonstration — tiny kids breaking blocks of wood with their kicks and punches.

Mayor of Kingston and other digitaries I like this festival immediately because all the announcements are made first in Korean and then in English for people like me who would be lost otherwise — and there are plenty of us, some finding their way in through the Fountain, the sort of sports pub I wouldn’t normally associate with cultural exchange. The Mayor of Kingston gives a short speech, commenting on the ‘lovely smell of food’.

A bewildered older British lady is walking around with a plate of plain white rice. A mum isn’t convinced her son will like the Korean grape juice with the whole grapes inside. ‘My son’s a bit funny, I’ll just have a bottle of water.’ But he’s tucking into a plate of bulgogi, barbecued marinated beef. ‘Yeah, he loves it. It’s the first time we’ve been down here.’

The Phoenix restaurant offers tastes of delicious sweet and spicy chicken. My objective today is to expand my Korean food horizons from pibimbap, kimchi tchigae and the handful of dishes I always order. I know from my months in Korea that not every traditional dish is for me. But there are hundreds to try.

Taekwondo stars take a break at the Fountain pub First, some culture. The superbly co-ordinated martial arts show is over, and two musicians are up next. Ji Eun Jung plays a traditional instrument called the kayageum with 25 strings. She performs several solos before being joined by guitarist Sung Min Jeon. The sound system is good and I enjoy the music, especially the traditional melodies. When Ji Eun Jung plays ‘Amazing Grace’ she mentions something about her Christian faith, and I later find out she is studying theology.

Jeong Ji-eun and Jeon Sung-min ‘I was a Buddhist all my life. Then one time I was in the island of Guam for a concert, and I met a singer called Mr Yoon. I knew he was a Christian — he was a very famous folk singer in Korea, like Simon and Garfunkel. He invited me to his church, but I didn’t want to go. But that Sunday I was bored and so I went to his church. He sang a song and suddenly I was crying… I didn’t know why.’ It took two years for her to grapple with what happened, before she converted to Christianity and found ‘peace in my heart’. All because of a song. She started performing in churches all over Britain.

I am lucky to be invited to join a group of friends at a table where we can share mounds of food, giving me a chance to taste and learn about a range of things in good company — the right way to enjoy Korean food. We’re in the shade of a tree and we have some drinks too. ‘You know we Koreans have to keep eating side dishes in order to keep drinking!’

I trawl the food stalls and come back with two new dishes. The first is soon-dae, slices of a dark sausage, griddle-fried with hot sauce and cabbage. Only when I put it on the table do I spot the unmistakable slices of tripe lurking among the cabbage. My new friend TJ tells me it is good for the stomach and for energy. The soon-dae is soft, with a slightly chewy skin; someone says it’s like haggis but there is none of the spice, and the texture is more like boudin, French black pudding. The tripe stays on the plate. TJ is disappointed. ‘It is better than snake!’ No, I think I could eat snake. ‘Better than dog!’ he jokes. OK, tell me about dog meat, I ask. He says his father’s generation mainly ate dog because there was no other food during the Korean war. Now, Korean society has advanced to the stage where hardly anyone eats dog. TJ recently met a British Korean War veteran who still remembered eating it. Did he say it was good, I ask? ‘No,’ says TJ. ‘Bad.’

My second experiment is tong-dwae-ji: slivers of spit-roasted pork, served with red garlicky sauce, slices of raw garlic and hot green chilli peppers, and — the really intriguing part — a spoonful of miniscule shrimp, each the size of a few grains of rice. The pork is lean and delicious, the prawns incredibly salty — apparently to aid digestion. But there is something very interesting about this dish if you can get the combination of ingredients right.

Korean Food Festival 2007 - the pig roast

The karaoke is now going strong beside our table and I take a break to speak to the owner of the Black Rose Garden Restaurant — whom I’d met a couple of weeks ago with his hands stuck in a bucket of wet cabbage, giving kimchi demonstrations at Kingston. He and his chef hung this whole pig carcass on a spit, all 69 kilos of it, last night to cook for seven hours. All the fat drips away. ‘We are just introducing this to the general public.’ This whole pork roast is only cooked for a special occasion, as it can feed a hundred people. But Mr Nam is a man who spares no effort in the pursuit of perfect food, for he also imports high-quality charcoal from Korea for his galbi, and flour from Korea for the restaurant’s unique naengmyun noodles. I ask him what I’ve always wanted to know: why naengmyun are so difficult to eat that they have to be served with a pair of scissors. He laughs — ‘They are so long!’ But why…?

The crowds remain strong all day. A couple of British blokes with pints of lager with a bag full of food cartons look rather embarrassed when I start asking them their thoughts on Korean food. ‘The truth is there’s a cook-off at my work, and because I live in New Malden I had to cook something Korean. I’m lucky this was happening at the end of my road. I’ve bought a load of dumplings and some of that squid.’ Which squid? ‘That kimchi stuff, I think it’s squid.’ Ah, that would be cabbage, mate. They live in New Malden but are unapologetic KFC aficionados.

Korean Food Festival 2007 Back on the grass in front of the karaoke screen, older ladies are dancing to ‘YMCA’. A smartly dressed Korean man sings ‘My Way’, and a British woman does ‘I Will Survive’ and an ambitious rendition of ‘Bohemian Rhapsody’. A young Korean woman with surprisingly a huge voice almost gets a standing ovation. Around our table, American Ryan makes a good point. British people talk about the loss of community spirit. But can you imagine them out on the grass now, dancing in their best clothes and singing their hearts out?

Still, there are plenty of Brits here today warming to the community spirit. The Korean Restaurants and Supermarkets Association have organised a great venue, excellent entertainment and food, and London has managed to provide an almost summery day — although it changes four times a day like a woman, says TJ. As the day draws to a close, no-one wants to leave. The young men help to clear up, and our table is stacked with now cut-price deep fried dumplings, prawns fried in batter, kimchi, galbi.

The tripe remains on the table.

Links:

  • A complete set of Jennifer’s photos on my flickr page
  • Tamarind and Thyme - another WordPress blogger who happened to be at the Fountain pub for the occasion.

Rain on the Parade — Kingston’s Mud Festival

04-Jul-07

Jennifer Barclay’s account of Kingston’s answer to the Boryeong Mud Festival

Umbrellas at Kingston FestivalWhere else on a wet Saturday in June would you get classical dance, freestyle football and women arm-wrestling? But no-one I asked in Kingston-upon-Thames knew where Fairfield Recreation Ground was. Signs might even have attracted the curious. Eventually I got directions from a policewoman, and the friendly young man at the entrance to the park welcomed me with a surprising handshake to the 10th Korean Festival.

Korean War Veterans paradeLast year’s was held in mid-August and was rainy and windy, one reason for the Korean Residents Society moving it forward to 30th June this year. It had alternated between drizzle and torrential all morning, and small crowds huddled around the tents with umbrellas. The day could not have been more challenged by the weather.

Korean War Veterans at KingstonIt opens annually, and movingly, with a parade by British Korean War veterans. The uniformed and decorated veterans then wandered about enjoying the Korean cultural offerings and food. ‘Try a piece of that, ‘Arry!’ said a nice cockney chap who’d enjoyed the kkaetnip kimchi at the Agricultural Cooperative kimchi-tasting stand. He collapsed into a coughing fit when he moved on to the radish one. ‘Made my eyes water, that did! Dear me!’

Mr Woo, Freestyle Soccer SuperstarWe could all appreciate the astonishing skills of Mr Woo, record-holding football freestyler, with his shoulder-length, wispy, bleached-blond hair. To the rather raunchy musical accompaniment of ‘Shake Your Ass Baby’, he kept the football in the air by bouncing it off shoulders, chest, head, back, twisting around to juggle the ball with ankles, heels, instep… Mr Woo, Freestyle Soccer Superstar in actionLater, I spoke to the world’s greatest football entertainer who now lives in London. His skills were seen by millions in the T-Mobile commercial during Euro 2004 and he holds the Guinness World Record for keeping a soccer ball in the air for five hours and six minutes. A player in Korea and Germany some years ago, he’s now a professional freestyler. ‘It’s getting bigger worldwide,’ he said, ‘because kids can do it by themselves anytime, anywhere.’ Two kids in football strips spent most of the afternoon practicing.

Kids practising freestyle soccerB-boy at Kingston Korean festivalMr Woo and I interrupted our conversation to enjoy the hip-hop performed by local youth, the boys in black suits and white ties, the girls in tracksuits, with the occasional B-boy solo of somersaults and spinning. There was plenty of classical music and dance, too. A reliable favourite of the traditional Korean dancing is the fan dance, and this one performed by a team from SeoKyeong University was complex, amazingly co-ordinated, and the girls were pretty in their embroidered silk costumes.

Fan Dance at Kingston Korean Festival 2007If the weather kept the crowds small, at least the officials were all there including a mayor and the Korean ambassador, who visited the police stand at the same time as I did. One of the stranger exhibitors, the police were scouting for new recruits for the Special Constables. A Special plays the same role as a full-time police officer, but it’s a volunteer position for only eight hours a week. The helpful man who spoke to me worked for London buses when he wasn’t a Special; ‘It’s a way of helping your community, and after one year it’s easier to get into the police. I could never look back and say I haven’t enjoyed it.’ Kingston has 44 Special Constables alone; currently there is only one Korean Special Constable in the whole of the UK — making him truly Special, I suppose.

Korean War Veteran at KingstonHSBC were also there, ‘letting people know we’re part of the community’ and particularly drawing attention to their international services for wealthy clients. This was the first year they’d taken part in the festival. ‘It’s such a shame the weather’s not better,’ said someone. Then British Korean War veteran came up and asked for a brolly, and was told they’d given away the last one. There were about a hundred empty umbrella cases — at least HSBC would get some free advertising.

Balloons at Korean festivalWe all had mud on our jean cuffs by the time the final raffle tickets were being drawn. But kids still happily bounced their balloons on elastic strings, and the women-only arm wrestling went down a treat, especially as all the finalists won a set of golf clubs. The Korean community had a good day out. Maybe a few non-Korean Brits had come out of curiosity, but performances were introduced only in Korean. If one aim of the festival is to consolidate friendly relations between the Korean people and the wider community, announcements in English would help to draw people in. To be fair, the presenter did ask if everyone understood, but I wasn’t going to be first to put my hand up and say ‘no’. Most people seemed to have some sort of Korean connection, a Korean friend who’d invited them or a particular interest in drumming (the SOAS contingent) or martial arts (most of the taekwondo and hapkido performers were white British).

Mud at Kingston

The non-Korean Brits were therefore drawn mostly to the food stands, carrying away stacks of fried dumplings or barbecued meat. Lots of Brits were tasting kimchi for the first time; I felt sorry for the blokes demonstrating how to make it, their hands stuck in wet cabbage all day. A few tough guys with skinhead haircuts stood around drinking Hite from the bottle. There was delicious, cold ‘healthy tea’ made from different grains for 50p a cup from a man who said his church was raising money to help people in Africa; better than anything Starbucks has to offer. So there was something for everyone to enjoy, and once again the British Korean War veterans felt proud to have contributed.

Rivers dance for Dano

18-Jun-07

A roving reporter’s account of yesterday’s Trafalgar Square Dano festivities
by Jennifer Barclay
with photos mostly by Jeon Sung-min (photo of the b-boys by Katie)

The Dano festival about to start in a grey Trafalgar Square

It was a grey day on Sunday 17 June; but I donned a slightly sparkling T-shirt and set out for Trafalgar Square for the first ‘Korea, Sparkling’ Dano festival to be held there. ‘Korea, Sparkling’ is the new brand to lure foreigners to Korea. Dano? A traditional Korean summer festival, where people from neighbouring villages came together to have fun and celebrate the spirit of community. It would be just as likely to rain in Korea too, but warmer. The dark clouds looked like they might just hold off. And the cute little kids waving flags provided enough sunshine.

Team Kroniculs demonstrate some TaekwondoBy two o’clock my mouth was burning nicely from eating delicious rice cakes in spicy, gloopy red sauce (comfort food, the Korean equivalent of baked beans) and my ears were assaulted by tinny pop music accompanying a taekwondo-inspired dance routine that no-one could see properly. Then the hosts on stage were teaching us all to shout ‘An-nyeong-haseyo!‘ The steps in front of the National Gallery were full of people, and the square was getting busier. It was already hard to get to the food stalls and the tourism stand where with flags and information they gave out questionnaires (’When you think of travelling to Korea, what comes to mind?’). It seemed a successful day so far, I said to one of the girls handing out programmes. She smiled nervously. ‘I hope so! Thank you for coming!’

I giggled at first when the hip-hop dancers or B-boys started their breakdancing routine on stage. How did hard-working, obedient Korean kids get into breakdancing? Though they wore their baggy clothes and pulled-down hats convincingly. ‘Rivers’, the team of five from Seoul, were pitting their manoeuvres against Irish champs Bad Taste Cru. At first to my ignorant eyes it all seemed a lot of falling down and squirming crab-like on the floor, but then the acrobatic stuff started. When a young man balanced upside down on one single hand and then effortlessly flipped to the other hand and his t-shirt slipped down revealing a torso of pure rippling muscle, I realised how this stuff could catch on. Oops, someone somersaulted off the stage by mistake. But nobody hurt.

B-boy belly - by Katie

I’m a big fan of samulnori and the foursome up next with two drums and two gongs showed amazing stamina as they keep perfect timing, unfaltering, through crescendo, ebbing away then building again. It got my hips moving. They smiled throughout, making it seem easy as their hands just kept going and going.

An older British man in deep green uniform and beret was the most colourful, medal-bedecked of the veterans wandering around, so I had to talk to him. He’d been marching earlier to lay wreaths at the cenotaph for the Queen’s official birthday, and decided to see the Korean festival. He served with the Royal Ulster Rifles in the Korean War and showed me old photos. ‘We arrived in Korea in October 1950, and advanced as far as Pyongyang before the Chinese came over the border.’ They had ‘an engagement’ with the Chinese and were ambushed the following night; 208 killed, wounded or taken prisoner, including his friend. That winter the wind-chill made the temperature feel like 40 below — not so easy for digging slit trenches, and it took a while for their winter gear to arrive. A lovely old man, and hard to believe he was 83, Korean youthfulness must have rubbed off on him. I asked what he thought of the entertainment. He smiled, ‘They do a lot of that drumming, don’t they?’ It always throws him off when he’s marching at the annual Kingston event. We shook hands and said kamsahamnida.

Pajeon in Trafalgar Square

It being Father’s Day, the hosts on stage taught London to say Ap-pa, ssarang-hae! (Daddy, I love you.) I noticed a lot of English-looking men with Korean wives, mixed kids. I also noticed a happy multicultural mix: African ladies in bright print dresses, Muslim ladies covered up, Indian families, Eastern European accents. Lion danceI asked a couple of English girls what brought them here. ‘A Thai friend told me about it, she knows I’m into martial arts, but I missed that bit.’ What else had they enjoyed? ‘I like the dancing, the music. I tried some noodles, they’re nice.’

We watched an entertaining lion mask dance, two people in each lion costume shaking its white tassels to the drumming, and a funny masked lion tamer. Then hundreds of cameras were raised in the air to capture the very slow, formal and beautiful fan dance. When all the women span round, their pink silk dresses billowed out, flowing like water.

Fan Dance

Who’d have thought I’d watch two breakdancing contests in one day? But again it was mesmerising, exhilarating, and after gorging on chap-chae noodles and pa-jeon pancake it was galling to watch these boys looking light as a feather, balancing their whole bodies on one hand, somersaulting in the air, then spinning on an elbow. When it ended, I said hello to a group of young people who looked like they were from London. I asked a black guy from Hackney what he thought of the breakdancing. ‘Be honest!’ his mate said, grinning. It turned out I’d found quite an expert, as Shane had seen his heroes, Extreme Crew, in Seoul, and they were hard to beat. What was a Hackney boy doing in Seoul? ‘It was for the world tournament of an arcade game based on dancing, Pump It Up NX. It’s a worldwide thing. I’ve been playing for many, many years.’ He was 22, had been playing for seven. So, who did he think had won the contest today? ‘Rivers,’ he said, without having to think about it. ‘They were more cleaner, impactful, more fresh, they had more variety. Their team moves were more cleaner.’

Samulnori

There was more from the samulnori; only this time they were also dancing, with those long white ribbons attached to the drummer’s hat, so he can make fast-swooping patterns in the air as he drums faster and faster. The leader did something that looked suspiciously like break-dancing. It was at the end of the final parade of all the performers that Korean Wave met Korean traditional. As the samulnori drums beat away, each of the Rivers B-boys came into the ring solo and showed moves that dazzled the crowd. When everyone had taken their final bows and the last kamsahamnida had been shouted, there was no doubt who the absolute stars of the show were. Rivers posed like a boy band in hooded tops, first with their backs to the crowd and then turning around to smile at their camera-toting fans.

I never found any of the ‘iris hair treatments’ or ssirum wrestling traditionally part of Dano, or the Dano fan-making that the literature had seemed to promise. Perhaps I was just too distracted by everything else. But the point of ‘Korea, Sparkling’ is to show emotional dynamism, vitality, enthusiasm and openness to diversity. Korea sparkled for Dano in London, and London sparkled back.

Final farewells

Links:

  • More pictures can be found here