Tongyeong, Gyeongsangnam-do, Tuesday 27 March 2012. The Yun Isang Memorial Hall is a short walk from the ferry terminal which serves Tongyeong’s outlying islands. I had come there to attend a symposium attended by the two composers-in-residence and the Musical Director of the Tongyeong International Music Festival, which is now in its 10th year. It grew … [Read More]
Travel Diaries 2012: Music, Mugwort and Monochrome (page 2)
2012 Travel Diary 10: Mireuksan and meonggae – a morning on Mireukdo
Tongyeong, Gyeongsangnam-do, Tuesday 27 March 2012. Having experienced the sea, islands and much of Yi Sun Shin the day before, today was the day to try Tongyeong’s highest peak, Mireuksan, which shares its name with the island of Mireukdo. There is a cable car which takes you to within a few minutes’ walk of the summit. … [Read More]
2012 Travel Diary 9: Yun Isang — Victim of the Cold War
Tongyeong, Gyeongsangnam-do, Monday 26 March 2012. For most big Korean cultural events there’s a glossy brochure with a welcome message from various officials and dignitaries. And for the most important events you might expect a welcome message from the Minister of Culture. It is a measure of the sensitivity of the Tongyeong International Music Festival’s … [Read More]
2012 Travel Diary 8: Yun Isang, Sancheong and Tongyeong
Tongyeong, Gyeongsangnam-do, Monday 26 March 2012. The day has been devoted mainly to exploring some of the Joseon dynasty naval history in which Tongyeong played its part. But we’re also in Tongyeong to attend the Tongyeong International Music Festival, focusing on concerts which have music by Tongyeong’s most famous musical son, composer Yun Isang. In … [Read More]
2012 Travel Diary 7: Yi Sun-shin — military genius, hero, poet
Tongyeong, Gyeongsangnam-do, Monday 26 March 2012. The brief ferry ride from Tongyeong to Hansando traverses the sheltered sound where Admiral Yi Sun-shin won a famous victory over the Japanese navy on 14 August 1592. On the day I crossed, it was difficult to imagine the tumult of a battle in which 47 Japanese ships were … [Read More]
2012 Travel Diary 6: Tongyeong harbour
Tongyeong, Gyeongsangnam-do, Monday 26 March 2012. It’s another beautiful, crisp spring morning. The sea is calm, the sky is cloudless, but the temperature out of the sun is not far above freezing. The light is perfect for a few early photographs of the view from the hotel and from its waterside terrace, though it’s tricky … [Read More]
2012 Travel Diary 5: the Trip to Tongyeong
Seoul, Sunday 25 March 2012. Seoul’s Express Bus terminal is rather confusing. Even my Korean companion is struggling to figure out where to buy the tickets, what the difference is between a standard and a deluxe bus, and where they go from. We eventually work it out, and I’m glad she decided to tag along … [Read More]
2012 Travel Diary 4: Walking the palace trail with the RASKB
Seoul, Sunday 25 March 2012. It’s a cold, sunny morning, like the day before. I’ve booked myself on a walking trip of Seoul’s palace area, courtesy of the Royal Asiatic Society, Korea branch. We’re due to meet outside the Deoksu Palace at 9am, hence in part my reluctance to over-indulge the previous evening. It’s a … [Read More]
2012 Travel Diary 3: Bugaksan to Daehakro
Seoul, Saturday 24 March 2012. There’s time to kill before our evening appointment in Daehakro, so we go for a stroll in Samcheong-dong, along with most of the rest of Seoul. It’s 5pm on a pleasant Saturday afternoon, and young couples amble with an charming lack of purpose, getting in your way if you want to … [Read More]
Park Kyung-ni’s tomb in Tongyeong
For peope who like to track down literary landmarks, the tomb of Park Kyung-ni, author of the sweeping epic T’oji (Land) can be found on Mireukdo, Tongyeong, just above a memorial hall dedicated to her life and work. And for those who are short of time (like me), and like to tick off a number … [Read More]
2012 Travel Diary 2: Suh Do-ho “Home within Home” at the Leeum
Seoul, Saturday 24 March 2012. The Leeum Samsung Museum of Art, a short walk from Hangangjin subway station (Line 6), is currently hosting what is claimed to be their first ever solo show there by a living Korean artist. Suh Do-ho has been a prominent international artist for over 10 years – since appearing for … [Read More]
2012 Travel Diary 1: Dansaekhwa – Korean Monochrome Painting at the Museum of Contemporary Art
Gwacheon, Gyeonggi-do, Saturday 24 March 2012. Whenever I come to Seoul I always try to get to Seoul Grand Park in Gwacheon to visit the National Museum of Contemporary Art. Even if there isn’t a particularly interesting special exhibition on (and that’s rare), their permanent collection is always worth a browse. This time, the special … [Read More]
“A Reason to Live” and “Pain”: Two lame films to avoid
What better time to catch up on films you might not otherwise see than a long-haul flight from Seoul to London? Of the ten Korean films available on Asiana flight OZ 521 last week: I’d already seen and enjoyed two (War of the Arrows and Leafie) Two were feelgood sporting movies – not my usual … [Read More]
The LKL 2012 Korea Trip – introduction
For the past couple of years my Korea trip has been scheduled for the beginning of May, to coincide with the Sancheong herbal medicine festival and the Jongmyo rituals. This year, I thought I’d try something different, and planned a visit to the Tongyeong International Music Festival. A trip to that port city, location for … [Read More]
The LKL 2012 Korea Trip – index
Here is the table of contents for the 2012 LKL Korea trip, subtitled Music, Mugwort and Monochrome: Contents Introduction 12: Yun Isang’s music at TIMF 2012 1: Dansaekhwa – Korean Monochrome Painting at the Museum of Contemporary Art 13: Jeon Hyuck-lim, Magician of Colours 2: Suh Do-ho “Home within Home” at the Leeum 14: Mugwort … [Read More]
A big thank you to all those who made my recent Korea trip so special
I’ve just come back from an action-packed 10 days in Korea: contemporary art and Joseon dynasty architecture in Seoul; contemporary music, Joseon dynasty naval prowess and great scenery in Tongyeong; mountain hiking, fine Korean tea-bowls, Koryo dynasty cotton cultivation, Kaya kingdom tombs, one of highest temples in South Korea and much more in Sancheong County. … [Read More]