Korea Trip 2009

LKL talks to Brother Anthony on poetry, tea, temple stays and romanisation Wednesday 22 July 2009 On the twelfth floor of an anonymous building in the Sincheon area of Seoul there’s an overcrowded study. From a cassette player in the corner wafts the soothing sounds of kayageum and daegeum sanjo. Books line every available inch […]

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The LKL Korea Trip 2009 – reflections

by Philip Gowman 10 August 2009
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My quick break in Korea was a bit of a last-minute affair. I seized an opportunity which presented itself – a five-week break between jobs – and I really had no time to plan anything beforehand. Sylvia Park of Park Air Travel (15 Hanover Square, 0207 495 2525) fixed my flights with Korean Air at […]

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The LKL Korea Trip 2009 pt 9: Hails and farewells

by Philip Gowman 8 August 2009
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Thursday 23 / Friday 24 July I’ve left it rather too late to do my LKL-related networking, and I’ve been up too late most nights trying to do on my netbook what I could do in a quarter of the time at home, so I have little energy today – despite all the Korean food […]

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The LKL Korea Trip 2009 pt 8: Galleries old and new

by Philip Gowman 5 August 2009
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Wednesday 22 July 2009 A pleasant late start to the morning. Im Jeongae from London’s I-MYU gallery happens to be in town, looking after the show of British artists at the Total Museum. We cruise the Samcheong-dong galleries together as the heat of the day becomes slightly cooler, and the daylight light becomes milkier. People […]

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The LKL Korea Trip 2009 pt 7: Korea House

by Philip Gowman 3 August 2009
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Tuesday 21 July 2009 A slowish start to the day. Too much alcohol and food (and salt?) the previous evening, plus the heat and humidity of the Busan weather, meant that sleep did not come easily. A brief tube ride to Busan Station to the KTX for Seoul. On the Busan subway, a whim makes […]

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The LKL Korea Trip 2009 pt 6: Haeinsa

by Philip Gowman 31 July 2009
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Monday 20 July 2009 The trip to Haeinsa is via Daegu. A quick tube journey to the inappropriately named Busan Central Bus Terminal – at the northernmost extremity of the Busan public transport system (Nopodong), and then the express bus to East Daegu station takes nearly two hours. Another tube to the Seobu bus terminal […]

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The LKL Korea Trip 2009 pt 5: Bulguksa and Seokkuram

by Philip Gowman 27 July 2009
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Sunday 19 July 2009 More World Heritage points today. The Samgyeopsal from last night is still sitting heavily on my stomach and I don’t feel like breakfast. The 9 am KTX from Seoul Station, and the connecting train from East Daegu, went without a hitch, and bang on time. Just before I arrive in Kyongju […]

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The LKL Korea Trip 2009 pt 4: Recuperation and the Kilburn Art Space

by Philip Gowman 26 July 2009
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Saturday 18 July. Lee Seung-yeon relaxes in the Kilburn Art Space in Kim Ki-duk’s 3 Iron (빈집) I think the activity of the previous two days, combined with the time difference, has finally caught up with me. After a slow start to the day I consult the helpful tourist information people in Insadong how best […]

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The LKL Korea Trip 2009 pt 3: 20th century art and history

by Philip Gowman 24 July 2009
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Friday 17 July Today I elect to revisit the National Museum of Contemporary Art in Gwacheon (국립 현대 미술관). Very easy to get to: Seoul Grand Park subway stop on Line 4. Get out at exit 4 and get the free shuttle bus which leaves every 20 minutes. There’s a great Manhwa exhibition on at […]

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The LKL Korea Trip 2009 pt 2: Suwon and Prince Sado’s tomb

by Philip Gowman 23 July 2009
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Thursday 16 July Today the plan is to get a few UNESCO world heritage points: the Hwaseong Fortress at Suwon, followed maybe by the nearby folk village. From my base in Insadong, a one-hour tube journey direct from Jonggak station on Line 1 takes me to Suwon, armed with my guide books. A moment of […]

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The LKL Korea Trip 2009 pt 1: Arrival

by Philip Gowman 22 July 2009
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Wednesday 15 July 2009 Unaccustomed to long-distance standard class travel, I arrive in Seoul a little tired. All the previous times I’ve been to Korea, I’ve been in the area on company business, and this is the first time I’ve had to pay my own way: hence the downgrade in comfort. The evening bibimbap is […]

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Gen Paik Sun Yup Interview: Remembering the Forgotten War

by Philip Gowman 21 July 2009
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Seoul, Friday 17 July 2009 “Freedom is not Free”, we are reminded by the inscription on the monument commemorating the Korean War. In the bustle of our daily lives, we can forget the sacrifices made by previous generations to secure our freedoms. I have come to the War Memorial of Korea in Seoul to meet […]

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