The first scheduled event of London Fashion Week this year is a catwalk show featuring the Autumn / Winter 2014 collection of Jackie Lee (J. JS Lee), at 9am on 14 February.
DESIGNER NAME: Jackie Lee
BACKGROUND: Born in Seoul, Korea, Lee spent five years working as a Senior Pattern Cutter in Seoul and two years at KISA London as Master Pattern Cutter. She studied at Central Saint Martins (MA 2010 womenswear) as well as completing the PG Innovative Pattern Cutting at Central Saint Martins in 2007.
SIGNATURES: “Chic, minimalist and modernist tailoring.”
TRADEMARK PIECE: “Embossed details on solid fabric.”
IDEAL CLIENT: “A modern woman who is concerned with looking sharp in a uniquely feminine way.”
AW14 DETAILS: J. JS LEE Autumn Winter 2014 collection presents an ‘Off-Road Lifestyle’; born out of the need for escapism, from the imagination and wildest dreams of designer Jackie Lee, desperately seeking solitude and the peace and tranquillity of the great English country side.
Tired and through torrential rain, Jackie begins her journey fleeing hectic city life for the open country, driving straight for the mysterious deep forest. Venturing ‘off road’, Jackie follows the entrancing, geometric tyre tracks through muddy terrain, leading her deeper into the mystical woodland of middle earth. Here Jackie feels warmth and stillness, setting up camp within nature’s serene thicket and becomes immediately inspired by a mythical folklore creature, taking the form of this seasons muse.
The collection focuses on comfort and warmth, outerwear takes a more serious tone in the guise of heavy, dramatic full-length coats, teamed with for the first time elegant, ethereal floor length evening gowns. Tent like piping provides decorative edging and creates a geometric, box like sculpted structure.
Following a princess shape silhouette, full length A-line skirts feature pleated waists and mermaid hemlines as a nod to classic 50’s shape.
Drawing reference from 20’s, Sonia Delaunay designs, Jackie combines classic hound’s tooth patterns with deep muddy tyre tracks to create a unique ‘off road’ jacquard print. These bold patterns are emblazoned across dresses, jackets and knitwear to add decorative embossed detail and to give an illusion of textured knits. Intricate tyre print laser cut detailing adds an additional layer of texture,
Knitwear features oversized roll necks teamed with minimal edge to edge jackets embellished with the ‘off road’ jacquard print detail.
Classic British heritage fabrications include wool and brushed tartan mohair, Melton felt is used as a nod to classic formal menswear tailoring and features beneath collar detail, whilst a specially created double bonded jersey allow for stronger shape and structure.
A military inspired, British, colour palette of emerald ‘forest’ green and midnight navy blue is offered in both solid colour and Tartan, alongside rich mud terracotta earth brown shades set against a neutral colour palette.
Accessories include pony skin covered oxford shoes, sandals and heels along with a statement, oversized folded clutch bag featuring the off road’ embossed jacquard print for texture.
At 3pm the same day comes the Autumn / Winter 2014 collection from Eudon Choi.
DESIGNER NAME: Eudon Choi
BACKGROUND: Born in Korea, Eudon Choi initially trained as a menswear designer in Seoul, acquiring an in-depth knowledge of tailoring techniques and a great eye for detail. He moved to London to attend the Royal College of Art’s MA in womenswear. Eudon worked as a womenswear designer for a few years before setting up his eponymous label in 2009. Eudon won the LYCRA®Style Emerging Talent Award at the WGSN Global Fashion Awards in New York in 2011 and debuted at LFW in February 2012 with his ‘Terra Nova’ collection.
SIGNATURES: Masculine yet feminine, Eudon’s experience in menswear enables him to use sartorial techniques and masculine cuts to shape the female form.
AW14 DETAILS: For his Autumn Winter 2014 collection Eudon Choi delivers a signature collection of precision tailoring and luxurious fabrics. Aptly titled Hysteria, the collection takes inspiration from the devoted fans of iconic sixties rock bands. Constantly in a state of frenzy – the screaming, the waiting, the longing, the craving for even the briefest glance – Eudon Choi reinterprets all of the excitement of 1960’s Brit pop culture for today’s woman.
An ongoing theme of Choi’s work is the seamless blending of womenswear and menswear techniques, which in this instance is cleverly interpreted via the characteristics of the era’s Mod styling. The crisp, sharp tailoring and outerwear worn by the members of bands like The Kinks and The Rolling Stones have been referenced and reworked.
In Choi’s Hysteria, asymmetrical mini skirts and dresses are paired with oversized tailored silhouette while a voluminous peacoat in cobalt-blue check and a snappy pinstripe navy blue trench with draped collar shine through. Intarsia knits in bottle green, mustard and royal blue are emblazoned with the Mod’s transport of choice, the Italian Vespa.
Scooter helmet emblazoned knits are coupled with front seamed cigarette pants and an oversized belted parker. Shift dresses in wool tweeds and silks are finished with white cotton fluted collars, while mini skirts and dresses synonymous with the time are layered with Choi’s signature outerwear, fusing his signature menswear tailoring techniques. As an era that broke many fashion traditions, mirroring subcultural and social movements, the 1960’s saw masculine styles becoming increasingly refined, a style that is evident throughout this collection.
Choi delves further in to the counterculture, drawing inspiration from the Groupies who basked in the sought after attention that the hysterical fan so longed for. Choi draws inspiration from Anita Pallenberg and Marianne Faithfull both of whom gained huge public attention as much for their opulent, individual style as for their relationships with Mick Jagger. Their influence is evident in a cinched white dress encrusted in silver and white embroidery and an extravagant show stopping grey Mongolian shearling coat that plays with proportion and texture and in a checked tweed jumpsuit with imbalanced bell sleeves that introduces a touch of theatre.
For AW14, Eudon Choi again collaborates with Shoe Designer Joanne Stoker who has created Cuban heeled ankle boots and slippers in blocked colours with panels of leather, pony skin and suede. Elsewhere the collection is accessorised with woollen wrist warmers and leather totes created by Choi in collaboration with Korean accessories brand Bean Pole.
Both catwalk shows will be streamed live over the internet for those unable to make it to Somerset House, according to the London Fashion Week website.
DESIGNER NAME: Rejina Pyo
BACKGROUND: Born in Seoul and based in London. Rejina completed an MA at Central Saint Martins in 2011. Following that she was selected to launch a collection with Weekday, H&M. She is a winner of the Han Nefkens Fashion Award 2012 and worked for various luxury brands before she launched her own label in 2013.
DESIGN SIGNATURES: “Graphic silhouettes, contrasting colours and materials; intelligent, effortless style with a twist.”
COLLECTION: “Roger Mayne’s 1950’s photograph, Girl Dancing and abstract paintings by Ellsworth Kelly and Hans Hartung, which have been a great inspiration for all my work.”
WHAT MAKES LONDON WOMENSWEAR SO EXCITING? “The unexpectedness of young designers!”
WHAT ARE YOU LISTENING TO IN YOUR STUDIO? “Haim & Erlend Øye.”
If you’re celebrity-spotting, Burberry Prorsum can usually be relied upon to line up a K-celeb or two. Last September it was Jeon Do-yeon, and London Fashion Week in 2012 it was some of Girls Generation. The Burberry catwalk show, unlike the others mentioned above, is not at Somerset House. Only those who have been invited know. But it must be out there on the web somewhere if you feel like loitering with your camera. Their catwalk show is 2pm on Monday 17 February.
For lookbooks and other links related to the above designers, visit their respective pages on the London Fashion Week website: J. JS Lee | Eudon Choi | Rejina Pyo from where the text blockquoted above is taken.
(automatically generated) Read LKL’s review of this event here.