Two Korean fashion designers displayed their Autumn / Winter 2014 looks on the London Fashion Week catwalk on Valentine’s day. And despite their very different inspirations, there were interesting parallels in terms of colour palette and fabric, and even some design features.
Looking at the common factors between the two collections, high, roll-neck or sculpted collars are in; plaid is in; and dark blues, creams and ivories, dark earthy browns could be the colours of the Autumn. But those elements are the common denominators, and the inspiration of the two designers leads them in different directions.
J. JS Lee’s signature for the Autumn is an oversized houndstooth design, either embossed onto the fabric, a technique which makes you think you are looking at textured knitwear, or laser cut into the top layer of fabric. And the inspiration for this feature – which runs as two parallel stripes down the front of the first full length dress to appear on the catwalk? The tyre tracks made by an off-road vehicle. For the theme of Lee’s collection is the depth of the forest, the off-road, the remote countryside – hence the colours which include dark browns, dark greens and dark midnight blues.
Eudon Choi’s inspiration comes from the 1960s, and the hysteria displayed by the fans of the big sixties rock bands. Continuing his trademark theme of introducing the best of men’s tailoring into womenswear, his collection for AW14 combines inspiration from the likes of Marianne Faithful and Anita Pallenberg with the sharp tailoring for which Mod styling is known. Asymmetric cuts to a dress; pinstripe fabric, fur detail which perhaps nods to the parka. His colour palette is enhanced by the occasional splash of autumnal orange which complements the otherwise restrained tones.
In the ready-to-wear designer showrooms Jackie Lee’s collection could be seenup-close. And also Rejina Pyo’s AW14 range could be viewed. By the time LKL got there on 17 February her clothes rails were empty, but the brochures indicated a bold use of colour and geometry – a departure from the softer, more floral look from her earlier seasons, and more in keeping with her “Structural Mode” collection which is currently on show at the KCC.
Lee’s and Choi’s AW14 collections can be seen on the London Fashion Week website; Pyo’s is on her own site.