The timing of my 2014 trip to Korea was determined by a sad event: the 49th day ceremony (effectively the funeral) of Sena Lee, daughter of the former Sancheong mayor, to whom I was first introduced when I visited Sancheong in 2010, and whom I subsequently got to know better in London where she completed … [Read More]
Korea Trip 2014: New Beginnings
2014 Travel Diary day 11: The most expensive breakfast ever
The return home, with thanks to all who made the trip special. Eulji-ro, Seoul, Monday 16 June, 8am. My last morning in Seoul, and I was seriously hung over. I had arranged to meet the Seoul bureau chief of my favourite newspaper for breakfast: he had suggested that we meet at my hotel, not far from … [Read More]
2014 Travel Diary day 10: two art museums and a reality show
In which we have our customary day visiting the contemporary art museums. Eulji-ro, Seoul, Sunday 15 June, 9am. For the first time in recent memory I haven’t scheduled in a trip to the Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art in Gwacheon this visit. And that’s because, since the last visit, the big construction project on … [Read More]
2014 Travel Diary day 9: the RASKB Garden Party
In which we have our third literature-related lunch of the trip, and enjoy an important event in the Seoul social calendar. Eulji-ro, Seoul, Saturday 14 June, 9am. I make a leisurely start to the day, ambling up via Jogyesa to Seoul Selection bookshop, intending to spend a chunk of cash. I get there at 10:30 to … [Read More]
2014 Travel Diary day 8: Two museums near Yongin
A day-trip South into Gyeonggi-do to visit two top museums. There are other things to visit near Yongin as well as the Folk Village. Eulji-ro, Seoul, Friday 13 June, 9am. The Ho-am Art Museum in Yongin is home to a number of treasures. The museum opened in 1982 as the permanent home for the collection of Samsung boss Lee … [Read More]
2014 Travel Diary day 7: the concubine, the eunuchs and the gisaeng
Another literary lunch and a visit to the tombs of the trusted palace servants. Eulji-ro, Seoul, Thursday 12 June, 9am. I decide to take it easy today, and have a bit of a lie in. I pop outside to the subway station to pick up a coffee and pastry, and then pay a quick visit to … [Read More]
2014 Travel Diary day 6: modern design and ancient mysteries
Joseon dynasty treasures in Seoul’s newest public building, and conversations about mountain shrines. Eulji-ro, Seoul, Wednesday 11 June, 9am. An added bonus of staying at the Lotte Hotel is the mobile phone that comes free with the room. But still I needed a SIM card for my smartphone: when you’re in an unfamiliar location the map … [Read More]
2014 Travel Diary day 5: 타종식 — New beginnings
In which we hike to Beopgyesa to cut the ribbon at the 타종식: the ceremonial first ringing of the highest temple bell in South Korea. Donguibogam Village, Sancheong-gun, Tuesday 10 June. We wake up at 5:30, dilute our espresso with boiling water from the kettle and carefully eat the cake. I have a dull feeling … [Read More]
2014 Travel Diary day 4: The reappointment
In which I say farewell to the retiring County mayor, meet the incoming one, and get given my first public engagement. Sancheong-yo, Sancheong-gun, Monday 9 June, 7:00am. The sleeping pill ensured that I got a good night’s sleep. And the guest bathroom, with plenty of towels, is a luxury. The day is already warm at … [Read More]
2014 Travel Diary day 3: 사십구재
The 49th-day ceremony (사십구재) for Sena Lee, who died in Seoul on 22 April 2014, held at Anjeoksa, Sancheon-gun, at which family and friends said farewell to her. According to dharma master Tim Lerch, Traditionally, the period of 49 days after someone dies is seen as a time for that person to check their consciousness and digest their … [Read More]
2014 Travel Diary day 2: Orchids for the altar
In which we make our way to Sancheong County via a literary lunch. Haeundae Beach, Busan, Saturday 7 June, 8am. The buskers must have been singing until later than 3am. Even though my room was somewhere higher than the 10th floor, the sound insulation was so poor that they might just as well have been … [Read More]
2014 Travel Diary day 1: Harassed in Haeundae
In which I arrive, somewhat frazzled, at Busan’s crowded beach area. Canary Wharf, London, Thursday 5 June, 3:30pm. Every time I leave the office for a trip, no matter how much I’ve tried to tidy up all my loose ends in advance, the departure from work is stressful. I had left a good hour to finish … [Read More]